Knowmad Adventures Blog

FELIZ NAVIDAD & HAPPY NEW YEAR!

2011-12-21T08:08:00.000-08:00

We are so thankful to you all as we reflect on Knowmad’s journey this holiday season. As well as bringing us together with our loved ones, the holidays and another passing year reminds us to look back as well as forward.

It is hard to believe that just two Christmas’s ago Tara and I snapped our holiday photo along the shores of Chile’s Lago Llanquihue and rode our chubby Percheron horse Dora at the dairy farm, Knowmad still yet a vision coming more into focus as travelers trickled in to visit us. And just last year with a new office squarely back in the United States, worrying from afar about our first big wave of holiday travelers exploring Chile and the Patagonia with Knowmad.

Bringing us to the excitement of 2011. We’re humbled to have helped hundreds of explorers discover far-flung corners of Chile, Peru, Argentina and Ecuador. And hopefully in their travels they’ve discovered far-flung corners of themselves as well.

It is because of our travelers that we’re able to make a few loans to help citizens in need better their lives by empowering themselves, in addition to our other philanthropic projects abroad. We encourage you to consider micro-financing during the gift-giving season as well. Scroll down to meet Monica and the good people that, with the support of our travelers, Knowmad is helping finance.

Thanks for everything and we wish all of our friends and fellow Knowmads an incredible holiday, and a year filled with new experiences, growth, reflections, and new horizons.

MONICA MIRELLY COBENA ZAMBRANO: Monica works in a company in the city of Manta and has a business selling all types of clothing. She makes most of her sales from her house, and she also sells at her place of work. She sells on credit, and collects every 15 days. She buys her merchandise in Manta, Guayaquil or Huaquillas, depending on what she needs for her sales. She has been working in this business for 5 years, and it is going well.

She will use this loan to buy more merchandise, such as: pants, blouses, shirts and children's clothing. She has been a member of her communal bank from the start, and she likes it because the loans have been very helpful to her.

Her dream is to provide the best for her children.

RICARDO CANDELARIO: Ricardo would like to improve his income by better stocking his kiosk where he sells candies, newspapers and soft drinks as this is how he supports himself and his family. Ricardo has two children and also takes care of the children of his partner who had an accident and is in recovery. It was his partner's sister who, seeing the need and also valuing the sacrifice that Ricardo was making, rented the kiosk which is located in quite a strategic location owing to the large number of people who purchase things from it as they pass by. On days when his eldest son Leo doesn't have school, Ricardo also works as a builder so that he can further contribute towards his household finances.

Ricardo hopes for his sons to become fine, upstanding young men and so he insists in providing them with a good education and, so far as he can, provides them with everything they need. His eldest son is 16 years old and his second is 12 years old. The little ones are 6 and 4. His eldest son also contributes towards the family as he looks after his young siblings while his father is working. During the loan evaluation, I was able to meet Ricardo's partner, Patricia, who is recovering from a fall that she suffered. She was receiving medical treatment for more than a year as she was found unconscious. Now, however, her recovery process is completely favorable.

EDA EVELING: Eda lives and works in Ica, Peru. Ica is located in the Sechura Desert about four hours south of Lima, the country's capital, and is hailed by Peruvians as "The Land of the Sun." It is known in Peru for its frequent earthquakes (an 8.4 in 2001 and 8.0 in 2007), its production of grapes, asparagus, and olives, and perhaps most notably, as the source of Peruvian's traditional national drink, Pisco.

Eda is 29 years old , married, and has two young children. She sells clothing, which generates income and has proven to be profitable. She is a go-getter, persistent and responsible with a lot of desire to get her family ahead.
She started her business in 2008 and is making about 440 soles (about $160 USD) a week. She works 10 hours per day, 7 days per week. With this loan of 3000 ($1,100 USD) new soles that she will receive thanks to Knowmad and others, she will buy merchandise in volume and increase her margins.

Her dream is to have her own stand and to expand to a national level so that she can increase her income and finish building her house, this way achieving a better way of life. Her adviser believes that she is an excellent client and that she will pay her installments promptly.

For more information on any of these people or others in need of micro-loans to help them improve their businesses and lives, please visit our friends at Kiva.

PARTING SHOTS

2011-11-12T09:06:00.001-08:00

Check out these images which might as well be professional from Steve, Andrew and Phillip who did a custom version of our all new Peru Active Explorer.

PARTING SHOTS

2011-11-11T11:05:00.000-08:00

The Seviers travel by horseback, bike and sea kayak as they explore indigenous cultures, fjords and islands, and modern Chile on the Northern Patagonia Odyssey. Now is the best time of year to design your Patagonia experience with Knowmad.

"The Knowmad team put together the trip of a lifetime for us. Everything was perfect, from the guides to the accommodations to the activities, and their extensive knowledge of the area and personal relationships with the people we met in Chile were invaluable. We can't recommend Knowmad highly enough."

--Ben & Sarah, New York City

THE OTHER SIDE OF SUSTAINABILITY

2011-10-21T09:20:00.001-07:00

Fellow Knowmad, frequent contributor, and ocean conservation guru Devin Harvey weighs in on the sustainability discussion.

Sustainability—the term, the concept, the practice—is now firmly implanted in the modern, global zeitgeist. No longer is it some radical, hippie-dippie theoretical construct reserved for the zealous environmentalist. Today, even corporate is climbing on board the sustainable train (though perhaps they waited a bit longer to see if that train was chugging—on renewable energy—toward Cashtown). Companies that value the lifespan of the commodities they buy, trade and sell, as well as the stakeholders and resources involved, will more often than not reap long-term financial benefits. While corporate buy-in to the sustainability mantra is essential for reversing global environmental decline, individuals play a significant role in steering public discourse when they shop, eat, and even travel.

Boiled down, sustainability is the endurance of things; the capacity for something expendable or exploitable to maintain or recover within a system, given time and space. Over-exploitation, in any form, threatens this ability to endure and much of humanity has a propensity for excessive consumption.

The sustainability discussion with which I am personally most familiar, is seafood. Working for the past four years for an ocean conservation non-profit organization has instilled in me a glaringly clear understanding of just how finite the Earth—and its resources—really is. Even the ocean, once thought to be a limitless bounty of protein, is under attack from overfishing, climate change, ocean acidification, pollution and myriad other human threats. Ocean exploitation is particularly compelling and also particularly challenging to combat because 1) you can’t see under the surface standing on the beach, 2) fish are not cute and cuddly, and 3) everything flows to the sea! If shrimp trawlers were able to fly over a forest in hopes of catching deer instead of shrimp, and they dragged their giant trawl nets through, ripping up trees, bunnies, bears, foxes, squirrels and every other adorable terrestrial critter, might you think twice about eating that venison stew?

Sustainability does not apply solely to the environmental discussion, however, nor to the financial discussion for that matter. Not only can things, like natural resources, suffer from relentless human pressure, but also people, ideas and cultures. This is a particularly sensitive subject for the world traveler. In a hyper-globalized world the importance of socio-cultural responsibility and cross-cultural respect cannot be overstated. When we travel, not only does a place feel the impacts of our footfalls, but it also feels the impact of our humility, or lack thereof, in a world unlike our own. Far more subtle than a massive net tearing through coral reefs, trapping thousands of non-targeted animals, threats to cultural sustainability can be imperceptible. However, history need be our only witness to the disappearance of cultures.

Currently, the Moroccan government is pushing for more travel to their country by adding “no frills” flights from numerous European cities, attempting to raise the number of annual tourists to ten million in the next four years. Last year the North African country attracted only 2.5 million visitors. Not only are there fears of over-crowding and unattractive development but also of a water crisis. Modern hotels and resorts, with swimming pools and trickling fountains (not to mention highly consumptive guests) will greatly increase demand on the water supply. A broad-based, massive scale infrastructure change like this produces a vast array of jobs and brings significant revenue into the country, but at what cost to the people, the values, the beauty, and the sounds in the markets of Marakesh or the coasts of Casablanca? Airport, road and train station expansions are underway in Marakesh and there’s no turning back.

Morocco may regret not considering an approach that would balance immediate economic gains with long-term impacts on the tangible and intangible things that make a place worth visiting. A more responsible approach to spurring tourist revenue would allow for greater cultural and environmental sustainability while avoiding a situation in which a country or city becomes reliant on tourism and their people find themselves entertaining guests forever with few other options for maintaining their livelihoods.

We have an opportunity when we travel, and that is to listen and watch, to eat and drink, to ask and absorb and ultimately to grow without taking. It is my humble opinion that when we do that we discover an opportunity to share and to contribute to a cultural exchange and experience, as opposed to cultural consumption. So explore the places big and small, far and near, exotic and local, and wherever you go, tread lightly and listen carefully.

PARTING SHOTS

2011-08-03T12:20:00.001-07:00

A big thank you to Ed & Suzette for these breathtaking shots from the Atacama Desert, Chile. Their itinerary included excursions to salt flats, geysers, petroglyphs, volcanoes and traditional altiplano villages. Returning to the lodge in the evening, poolside relaxation, gourmet cuisine with Chilean wine, and the world's most vivid night sky were just what the doctor ordered.

TRAVEL TIPS: GEAR IS GOOD

2011-07-29T06:39:00.000-07:00

Having been born and raised in Minnesota (where we exist in sub-zero conditions for the majority of the year) I actually did layer before I could walk.

The knowledge of layering clothing proved useful years later in Patagonia, Chile where, with its variable climate, it's smart to start out with a base layer, topped by a mid or insulating layer, and then lastly covered by a wind and rain layer. That way you're nice and toasty starting out in the chill of the morning, and can easily peel back a couple layers once the sun starts to shine. And if it rains, you've got your waterproof layer keeping everything dry below. Synthetic materials are best (vs. cotton) since they wick away moisture effectively and are quick-drying.

Pictured here is a capilene base layer, a hooded fleece for a mid or insulating layer, and a waterproof, yet breathable, shell for the outer layer. All are from the Patagonia online store (or what we like to call Patagucci here at Knowmad Adventures).

un beso, tara

CULTURE, ART, & DESIGN: VALPARAISO & VINTAGE LABELS

2011-07-14T11:19:00.002-07:00

Simply wandering through the eclectic, cobblestone streets of Valparaiso, Chile is enough to bring you back in time. Peddlers hawk their wares on street corners; the rickety ascencores, or cable cars, will still carry you up the hill for a hundred pesos; and the sound of guitar often fills the air.

On my favorite walk through "Valpo" I stumbled upon an antique shop - and for anyone that knows me, you can imagine my delight at finding these vintage wine and liquor labels. Instantaneously I'm envisioning the port town in its glory years (in the last half of the 1800s), when ships from Europe stopped here on their way from the Atlantic to the Pacific through the Strait of Magellan. This brought upon a gathering of various cultures - from the British to the Spaniards to the Germans as well as Chilean natives - and fostered a growth in the arts. Pablo Neruda, diplomat and the country's most famous poet, built a house teetering in the hills here, as well as painter Camilo Mori Serrano, the son of an Italian immigrant. The designs of these labels reveal a combination of cultural influences. For instance, in the Arak label, the typography is decidedly German - erect and concise. Whereas the grape graphics and color sensibility are most likely influenced by the European cultures bordering the Mediterranean.

Today Valparaiso, Chile remains a vibrant center of Chilean culture, housing universities, galleries, and boasting many barrios, or neighborhoods as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

un beso, tara

PERU UNVEILED

2011-06-20T09:02:00.000-07:00

Enshrouded in cloud forest and perched amongst Andean peaks sits a vast ancient city lost to civilization until only the last century. After Spanish conquest drove the Incans from their capital Cusco and the surrounding areas, it didn't take the jungle long to reclaim Machu Picchu, concealing it from mankind for hundreds of years.

As you’ll see, there are countless other reasons to visit Peru this fall other than celebrating the 100^th anniversary since Machu Picchu was rediscovered. We are proudly unveiling two new Classic Knowmad trips which take you to Peru’s highlights as well venturing off the beaten path to little-known lands: Classic Machu Picchu and Peru Active Explorer.

ITINERARY SUMMARY
Discover ancient ruins and vivid indigenous cultures as you journey through the heart of the Andes to the Lost City of Machu Picchu. Get off the beaten path in the Sacred Valley’s vibrant traditional villages and markets and return to charming accommodations on your in-depth, relaxing exploration of this powerful and charming region of Peru.

Day 1 – Arrive Lima. Depending on time, visit the city’s sites, museums and restaurants.

Day 2 – Fly to Cusco where Andean cultures come alive. Explore Incan stone terraces at Sacsayhuaman, the subterranean altars of Kenko, the water temple Tambo Machay, and the Puka Pukara fortress. Continue into snow-capped Andean peaks past Chinchero village to your oasis in the Sacred Valley.

Day 3 – Visit the isolated Amaru indigenous community in the Andes. Gather plants used as natural dyes and see how the Amaru’s colorful textiles are brought to life. Lunch with community leaders or picnic amongst Pisac ruins before bargaining for wares in the region’s most vibrant market.

Day 4 – Visit the massive Inca agricultural terraces of Moray and continue beyond the little-known village of Maras where pre-Columbian saltpans are still being harvested in the traditional way. Take the train along the river and Inca Trail to your accommodations set amongst gardens, semi-natural pools, and hummingbirds at Machu Picchu Pueblo.

Day 5 - Revel at the sunrise from the Lost City of Machu Picchu, perched amidst Andean peaks and lush cloud forest. Enjoy a complete guided tour of the site as well as having time to explore on your own.

Day 6 – A morning train ride takes you to Ollantaytambo where you can see the ruins towering above. Lunch at a colonial-era hacienda before continuing to Cusco.

Day 7 – Enjoy the day at your leisure exploring Cusco – a city where traditional Andean cultures, the colonial Spanish, and modern Peru fuse into one. Visit Korikancha – Temple of the Sun, shop at Andean markets, enjoy savory Peruvian cuisine and see colonial cathedrals built atop Incan foundations.

Day 8 – Return to Lima and depart. Or extend your trip with a visit to the Amazon or Lake Titicaca.

IS IT FOR ME?
An itinerary great for all ages that pays special attention to altitude, this trip takes you to the classic Peru highlights while also venturing off the beaten path offering hands-on experiences in indigenous communities, returning afterwards to charming, comfortable accommodations.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

- Experience a variety of vibrant indigenous Andean cultures

- Ride the rails in a historic train-car along the ancient Inca Trail

- Explore the famed Lost City of Machu Picchu and the Sun Gate

- Wander the legendary Incan ruins of Sacsayhuaman and Ollantaytambo

- Meander the cobblestone streets and bustling markets of Cusco

- Get off the beaten path while discovering the ancient ways of Amaru villagers and bargain for colorful, hand-woven textiles in colorful Pisac market

- Lunch in a centuries-old hacienda while relaxing in the Sacred Valley

For more information about this trip contact Knowmad Adventures at 1 877 616 8747 or info.knowmad@gmail.com

ITINERARY SUMMARY

A more active approach to the Incan lands of Peru, on this trip you’ll find yourself day hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, downhill mountain biking through Andean villages, exploring and unwinding in the Sacred Valley with options to horseback ride or whitewater raft, and discovering Cusco and Machu Picchu with time for independent explorations.

Day 1 – Arrive Lima. Depending on time, visit the city’s sites, museums and restaurants.

Day 2 – Fly Cusco. Explore Incan stone terraces at Sacsayhuaman, subterranean altars of Kenko, water temple Tambo Machay, and Puka Pukara fortress. Continue into snow-capped Andean peaks past Chinchero village to your oasis in the Sacred Valley.

Day 3 – Visit the isolated Amaru indigenous community in the Andes. Gather plants used as natural dyes and see the Amaru’s colorful textiles brought to life. Lunch with community leaders - or picnic amongst Pisac ruins - and hike down the mountainside to the region’s most vibrant market and bargain for wares.

Day 4 – Mountain bike through colonial villages, down the Andes, to an ancient Incan laboratory, and amidst pre-Columbian terraced saltpans. Good for experienced and beginner riders alike. Enjoy a gourmet picnic before continuing to the valley floor.

Day 5 – Day hike the Inca Trail through Andean cloud forest on this ancient pathway leading you to the Sun Gate and the magical Lost City of Machu Picchu.

Day 6 - Revel at the sunrise from Machu Picchu. Enjoy a complete guided tour of the site as well as having time to explore on your own. Also possible to summit Huayna Picchu for a bird’s-eye view.

Day 7 – Hop the train to Ollantaytambo and see a vast ruin complex on the mountainside.
Enjoy lunch at an authentic colonial-era hacienda and a relaxing evening in Cusco.
*Optional horseback riding on Peruvian Paso horses through hacienda and colonial town.

Day 8 – Enjoy the day at your leisure exploring Cusco – a city where traditional Andean cultures, the colonial Spanish, and modern Peru fuse into one. Visit Korikancha – Temple of the Sun, shop at Andean markets, enjoy savory Peruvian cuisine and see colonial cathedrals built atop Incan foundations.
*Optional whitewater rafting or culinary adventure.

Day 9 – Return to Lima and depart. Or extend your trip with a visit to the Amazon or Lake Titicaca.

IS IT FOR ME?

An ideal trip for adventuresome families and couples looking for an active trip that explores the best of Peru and ventures to little-known lands and cultures.

TRIP HIGHLIGHTS

- Hike part of the ancient Inca Trail to Machu Picchu for a full day of exploring the Lost City – no camping

- Mountain bike through the Andean countryside, indigenous villages, and ancient salt pans

- Get off the beaten path while discovering the ancient ways of the Amaru villagers and bargain for colorful, hand-woven textiles in traditional Pisac market

- Lunch in a centuries-old hacienda while relaxing in the Sacred Valley

- Meander the cobblestone streets of Cusco – former center of the Incan empire

- Optional opportunities for horseback riding and whitewater rafting

For more information about this trip contact Knowmad Adventures at 1 877 616 8747 or info.knowmad@gmail.com

GASTRONOMY: MATE

2011-06-17T07:36:00.000-07:00

Mate is a tea infusion made from the leaves of the coca plant as well as other plants. Slightly bitter in taste, it’s drunk throughout many South American countries including Chile, Argentina, Peru, Ecuador and Bolivia. The culture of mate, which differs from region to region, is steeped in tradition. In the high Andean cultures, what used to be the Incan empire, it’s tied closely to religion and often used in ceremonies thanking the earth for its fruitfulness.

Coca leaves have long been considered a sacred aspect of the Andean culture. It is only in this past century that the chemical configuration was changed to process this plant into cocaine. Since then, the rest of the world has seen Coca as the raw material for the drug and not as the medicinal plant used for thousands of years. Coca has been used for centuries at every stage of the Andean people’s lives, and still is today. Before giving birth, a woman drinks and chews Coca to hasten the labor and ease the pain. When a child is born, relatives celebrate by chewing the Coca leaf together. When a young man wants to marry a girl, he offers Coca to her father. And when somebody dies, Mate de Coca is drunk at the wake and a small pile of leaves is placed in the coffin before burial. From ancient times, these rituals were considered sacred, and as such, the Coca leaf continues to have a great significance in the culture of the Andean people.

As with other brewed herbs, yerba mate leaves are dried, chopped, and ground into a powdery mixture called yerba. It is then stuffed in a gourd-like cup. These also vary widely depending on region – many in the Amazon will be made from bamboo, in northern Chile and Peru copper or another metal, while cedar and other woods are often used in the Patagonia. It is nearly always drunk with a bombilla or straw that has a filter on the bottom to filter out the yerba. Bombillas are also very ceremonious with families often passing them on from generation to generation.

Besides its ceremonial value, Mate de Coca is known to have a variety of medicinal qualities including alleviating the negative effects of altitude. And you’re in luck; mate has recently struck a chord in North America and can often be found in larger supermarkets as well as Latin grocers, so grab a bag and try some!

MINNESOTA LANDSCAPE ARBORETUM CROSSES THE ANDES AND PATAGONIA

2011-05-26T13:00:00.001-07:00

Knowmad Adventures in conjunction with the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum is proud to announce an incredible group trip “Crossing the Andes: An Exploration of Chile and Argentina”. The trip is open to Arboretum members as well as non-members – this includes you! This 13-day trip from January 16th to the 28th, 2012 will highlight the incredible landscapes of Chile and Argentina as well as the varied cultures throughout these regions while going from Santiago, Chile south to the Patagonia and across the Andes by way of fjords and glaciers into Argentina.

HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE:
See Santiago’s sights, Chile’s dynamic capital city
Enjoy vineyard visits and tastings in the Casablanca Valley
Meander coastal Valparaiso’s cobblestone streets and World Heritage architecture
Share a traditional meal on mystical Chiloe Island in the Patagonia
Explore the Chilean-German countryside and visit a working ranch
Traverse the Andes and Patagonia by boat through volcanoes, turquoise lakes, temperate rainforest and mountain peaks
Eat, shop and hike in Bariloche, Argentina, ‘Switzerland of South America’
Do it in style! This luxurious adventure highlights carefully selected accommodations in a variety of settings including modern, boutique, charming, historic and lakeside
Trip escorted by the Arboretum’s Peter Olin
$200 tax-deductible to the Arboretum included

Trip Land Cost: $3,995 (includes 10 nights deluxe & boutique accommodations, 70% of meals, & all guided excursions)
Not Included: estimated international airfare = $1,500 and regional airfare = $300

For a full Trip Information Packet call Knowmad Adventures at (1-877-616-TRIP) or write (info.knowmad@gmail.com) or call Peter Olin at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum (952-443-1412).

PARTING SHOTS

2011-05-03T07:00:00.002-07:00

A warm thank you to the Ryan family for sharing their photos with us! Their custom itinerary in Chile, South America took them from the capital of Santiago in the central region to the southern tip of the continent - Torres del Paine National Park in the Patagonia.

KNOWMAD NEWS: FEATURED IN MINNESOTA BUSINESS MAGAZINE

2011-04-19T14:00:00.003-07:00

Minnesota Business Magazine named Easter Island as one of their top summer getaways this year. And who's their preferred travel company to get you there and to other exciting South American destinations? That's right - Knowmad Adventures!

To read the full article order an issue here.

DESTINATION IN FOCUS: LIMA, PERU

2011-04-01T07:32:00.001-07:00

Built on a desert coast, Lima retains the name La Ciudad de los Reyes (City of Kings), long after the time of a Spanish royal presence. It's a place of contradictions - trees growing out of roofs of buildings. A contemporary eatery overlooking the ruins of a huaca or ancient burial ring. One block could be sunny, and the next blanketed in a deep fog. The scent of calla lilies linger in a cloud of diesel fume. The sound of the ocean can be heard beneath the rumble of this dynamic and culturally rich city.

KNOWMAD NEWS

2011-03-30T16:35:00.000-07:00

Dear Traveler,

Knowmad Adventures proudly provides active, authentic and sustainable travel experiences for independent-minded adventurers and small groups to Chile and Argentina. However there is still more adventure to be had and in order to grow, we’ve got to go. Endeavoring to bring you to the mystic mountains of Machu Picchu and to Darwin's famed Galapagos Islands, among many off-the-beaten path destinations, Knowmad Founders Tara and Jordan are packing their bags once again. Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador await with hidden treasures that we can't wait to share with you.

Follow us on our latest journey for a taste of these fascinating countries by subscribing to the new Knowmad Travel Journal. Like us on Facebook and get regular updates and photos from these exciting new destinations. You're not going to want to miss a glimpse at the adventure awaiting you!

PARTING SHOTS

2011-02-28T13:14:00.008-08:00

These fantastic nature shots by Knowmad travelers Wendy and Jay are in the running for the 2011 Knowmad Photo Contest. If you've traveled with us send in a few of your favorites to be eligible to win!

GASTRONOMY: MERKEN

2011-02-14T12:31:00.002-08:00

Merken is a spice found in Chile, South America. It's made primarily of a long, pointed chili pepper called “aji”, or “cacho de cabra” in local dialect, and coriander. However, it's surprisingly not that spicy.

Locally it is used to flavor soups, meats, omelets and salads. I like to add it to sauteed mushrooms myself. You can buy it at any market or grocery store throughout the country - it's as common as salt.

LAKE MINNETONKA MAGAZINE

2011-02-01T12:46:00.002-08:00

A big thank you to our friends at Lake Minnetonka Magazine for featuring us in their February issue. To read the article request a copy of the magazine here.

PARTING SHOTS

2011-01-26T13:04:00.007-08:00

We had the great privilege to work with the lovely Ms. Betsy and family in planning some great winery visits and central valley excursions prior to her and Michel's wedding in Chile, as well as a post wedding suare in the Maipo Canyon with some fantastic hikes. Here are a few great shots - thanks Jennifer for the images!

EXPLORER'S CORNER: A JOURNEY IN COCHAMO

2011-01-23T17:00:00.000-08:00

Even the incredible pictures that I saw on Facebook and the great stories I heard from travelers had no chance at properly preparing me for the magnificence I was about to see and experience in the Cochamó Valley. It is beyond description, the only way to really appreciate it is to go there. It all began with a gray rocky beach where we plunged our kayaks into the emerald green waters of the Rio Cochamó. We had a beautiful sunny day outside of Puerto Varas, Chile, which allowed us to see volcano and mountaintops outlining the landscape. We paddled all day on the beautiful fjord de Reloncaví passing horses, lush green lands and towering mountains. After a stop for lunch we paddled straight for the town of Cochamó accompanied by curious seals and porpoises swimming along side of us.

When Ko Kayak dropped us off at Campo Aventura’s Riverside Lodge in Cochamó, Isabel, our kayak guide, whispered to us that we were about to experience something very special. In only moments we would learn she was exactly right. Kurt and Armin, who own Campo, greeted us with warm smiles and invited us to afternoon tea. Because I am allergic to wheat, Jordan and Tara had arranged for them to make all wheat-free meals and snacks. Right away we felt we were welcomed into a home next to a rushing river with warm Alerce wood buildings, and vibrant hydrangeas setting the scene.

After a wonderful night by the river we packed up to hit the Cochamó Trail on horseback and ride 20 kilometers upstream to our next destination, the sister outback lodge on a mountainside in La Junta Valley. Cochelo, a strapping gaucho, led our group up the rugged majestic path through one of the last remaining temperate rainforests in the world. We crossed rivers and wove through the vegetation that can only be best described as resembling the landscape in Avatar; every turn was breathtaking. It was incredible to imagine we were tracing the steps of Butch Cassidy and Sundance Kid.

When we made our final river crossing we came through the gateway of trees to a vast green pasture surrounded by jagged snow-capped mountains spitting icy waterfalls. We rode through the grazing lambs and horses towards the wood buildings where we dismounted our powerful horses and met Tatiana, Horacio, and their son Andreas who live at the mountain lodge and tend to all the cooking, horses, and surrounding property. On the menu for our first dinner…a proper asado (a tasty Chilean version of a barbeque)!

We spent the next few days at the Mountain Lodge appreciating how refreshing the lifestyle is there. Although there is no electricity at the lodge, you barely notice it. The sun does not set until nearly 10 pm in summer, and what is more charming than candlelight? Because of the dramatic landscape, they are able to make use of gravity to provide running water, while the wood-burning stove that Tatiana prepares meals on, heats a water tank for hot showers. Tatiana made amazing (wheat-free!) meals on the only style stove/oven she has known. She told us she has cooked on a wood stove since she was eight-years-old. It was hard to believe that the delicious food did not require complex technology.

Each day, with lunch packed, we journeyed out on hikes. One hike led us to the top of a mountain called Trinidad. We climbed through towering trees that were thousands of years old, crossed streams with water so clear you had to look twice to confirm it was really water, and scaled rocks to admire La Junta Valley. We trekked further to the Laguna at the top for lunch and admired the vista around us, what is often referred to as the Yosemite of South America.

After a long hike, there is nothing more refreshing than taking a plunge down the natural waterslide only steps from the lodge. It is an organically carved waterslide, and the rocks are so smooth, it seems as though it is intentional that they are used as a slide. The water is chilly, but it is definitely worth it; we enjoyed it so much we went back each subsequent day.

The morning we were set to depart the Mountain Lodge was a difficult one. We were leaving behind the refreshing waters in the rivers and waterfalls, lush forests, and warm accommodations; we were yearning to stay at least another night. A little sad, but filled with great memories, we waved goodbye and set off on the trail with our trusty horses. It was a life-changing trip to be so immersed in the Chilean lifestyle and witness such amazing sites. We cannot thank Jordan and Tara enough for sharing this Patagonian treasure with us.

By Jennifer Vandemoer Mitchell

Note: this itinerary is part of the Northern Patagonia Odyssey - for more photos, information, and detailed itinerary click here.

'Tis the season for travel...

2010-12-02T12:37:00.002-08:00

...and Knowmad founders Jordan and Tara can’t resist the bug…so we’ll be heading down to Chile this March. Don’t be surprised when one or both of us - alongside our charismatic and knowledgeable local guides - accompanies parts of the March 26^th departure of the Countryside, Culture and Coast trip through central Chile, as well as the April 2^nd Northern Patagonia Odyssey departure. These trips are nothing short of awesome and we hope to see you there! For more details on these and our other adventures visit the new website at www.KnowmadAdventures.com.

The word is out and it has already been a great season for Knowmad Adventures. Our Classic Knowmad small-group adventures are helping get lots of travelers off the beaten path creating lifelong memories and experiences. We’ve also built a variety of customized itineraries that have taken travelers from massive Patagonian glaciers to thundering Iguazu Falls.

With spring in full swing in Chile and Argentina, the coming months are an ideal time for travels down south, especially to Patagonia – a natural paradise of glaciers and mountains at the end of the world. Be in touch and let the journey begin!

Check out a few photos from the Northern Patagonia Odyssey - Enjoy biking, hiking and horseback riding while getting an intimate perspective into the varied cultures of modern Chileans, traditional Chilotes and remote Patagonian horsemen. Ideal for those looking to do a little of everything.

Natural waterslide at La Junta

Cochamo Valley

Biking through the Chiloe countryside

Saltos del Petrohue and the Osorno Volcano

Sea kayaking the Reloncavi fjord

Chiloe's mystical coast

Cablecar river crossing to the Mountain Lodge

Giant nalca leaves on Chiloe

And a few from Countryside, Culture and Coast - a great trip for all ages that reveals the many facets of Central Chile. From the Presidential Palace to sleep fishing villages, fine vineyards to eccentric Valparaiso, this trip has it all.

Valparaiso de mi amor!

Santiago sights

Seaside bungalow in sleepy fishing village of Matanzas

Meandering through wine country

Santiago markets

Vineyard owner offers a tast of vino

A New Beginning

2010-05-24T15:31:00.005-07:00

Having spent the past seven months handcrafting active, authentic and sustainable travel experiences in Chile, we’re preparing to return to the U.S. to focus our energies on promoting our trips to travelers throughout the country.

We will be returning with an extensive catalog of trips. These trips stretch from the northern reaches of the Atacama Desert to the southern tip of the Patagonia. They range from the physically demanding and extreme, to the utterly relaxing and laid back. Knowmad Adventures are for families, seniors, honeymooners, student groups, companies, and solo travelers. They are for nature lovers, culture buffs, travel addicts, thrill seekers, outdoor enthusiasts, wine lovers and all those hungry to experience travel in South America.

Check out some images from our trips for a taste of traveling in Chile - Knowmad Adventures style!

If You Build It, They Will Come

2010-04-09T07:19:00.001-07:00

A big thanks to everyone who helped make March 2010 an incredible month for Knowmad Adventures! After many months of making strong partnerships throughout Chile and Argentina and designing what we feel are incredible travel experiences, we had our first big wave of travelers come and test the waters. Knowmad Adventures will always remember the Ladies in a Lower Latitude, Bama & Co., the Bottani Mafia, the Harvey Marathoners, and Crew Kellenberger. Thanks for believing in us and being the first Knowmads.

The reviews are in and, thanks to all of our amazing local partners, everyone who came left with unbelievable memories and the experience of a lifetime. To see some highlights of their trips and for a taste of the awesome travel experiences available in Chile and Argentina, click on the link below to our new Facebook page:

http://www.facebook.com/home.php?#!/pages/Knowmad-Adventures/108820649149383?ref=search&sid=657851356.1210056587..1

While you’re there please help us meet our goal of 500 by becoming a fan!

We’ll soon be returning stateside to begin the next chapter of the Knowmad Adventures story. Having designed a wide variety of adventure trips for a diversity of people and interests, we’ll return to Minnesota in June to begin putting a greater focus on marketing and promoting our adventures. We look forward to helping you find your adventure of a lifetime!

And the Earth Shook

2010-03-02T12:04:00.002-08:00

The dogs barked around four a.m. Their persistence awoke me, gently. Quieting suddenly, the house began to shake. Not a hysterical shake or a seizing fit, but a deep and distant trepidation lasting for minutes. “It’s your first earthquake baby,” I said as we drifted back to sleep.

Having almost forgotten the quake the following morning, we went to pick up our group of friends and travelers. The hotel manager’s expression betrayed his usually chipper mood. I learned then that the quake had taken place over 600 kilometers north, measuring 8.8 on the Richter scale, and what we felt was just an echo of a natural disaster.

We are personally very much fine. As a precaution due to expected disruptions in commerce in this long and thin country, we are well stocked on provisions and fuel. Our group, coined the Ladies in a Lower Latitude, has settled back on the farm with us, optimistic as we work to help them return to the states.

The quake struck near the country’s second largest city, and its effects were significant in the capital as well. Despite Chile’s economic success, disparity is significant. Very much like New Orleans post-Katrina, this disparity is worn on the country’s sleeve in the aftermath of natural disasters.

After a sluggish reaction - again similar to what happened in New Orleans - the President, Michelle Bachelet, is now sending more significant federal and international resources to the impoverished neighborhoods most ravaged by the quake.

On a continent where countries’ characters are often characterized for their warmth and affability, Chile is also known for its strength. It is a Cinderella success story in spite of a challenging history.

Officials are working to fully restore electricity and water, as well as create temporary housing for the displaced. Isolated and very small incidents of disorder have been contained. Santiago’s subway has been functioning at full capacity for two days. The airport is now up and running through a temporary terminal as they repair the main one. In the internet café down south the mood is light.

Chile will overcome this challenge to be stronger, as will Knowmad Adventures and our partners. As of now, we have no friends or colleagues who have suffered more than material setbacks. We are safe, optimistic, and would like to offer our heartfelt and deep gratitude to everyone who has reached out to us in this difficult time. Most of all we would like to wish strength to everyone who this challenge has affected – we will overcome. Viva Chile para siempre!

The Fu

2010-02-05T10:51:00.001-08:00

Next up was a trip further south to the world-famous Futaleufu river; home of hands down the best rafting in South America. With long stretches of rapid-filled, turquoise waters, it’s a natural paradise. Rafting is just the beginning; test your hand at fly-fishing, mountain bike through the temperate rainforest, gallop along the riverbank on horseback, and watch the stars from the riverside hot tub. The best part is you’ll share this wilderness playground with Patagonian cowboys, self-sustaining homesteaders, the birds, and very, very few other lucky souls.

We’ve found the best guides on the river, luxury camping that will make you never want to leave, and a team of people that elevate a trip to Patagonia’s river country into a life-changing experience. Seriously people, who’s ready for the trip of a lifetime.

Chiloe

2010-01-17T10:08:00.003-08:00

When one decides to start an adventure travel company it’s not because they envision spending sixty hours a week staring at a computer. Researching, calling, emailing, circling back, requesting quotes, revising, crunching numbers, crunching again, doing data analysis, until the day arrives that you realize you haven’t walked outside, left the desk or changed out of your pajamas and it’s ten o’clock…in the evening. And that’s when it’s time to hit the road.

It’s a huge perk; one would suspect the best part of the job, traveling to far-flung and exotic destinations as a job assignment. They may not pay as highly, but these business trips beat visiting a large manufacturer of Subway sandwich shop seats in southern Indiana to try to convince the CEO he ought to spend a couple hundred grand on quality management software, and not by a small margin.

One of our last business trips took us to a Patagonian island - recently made a UNESCO world heritage site - that remained isolated during Spanish colonization and retains a unique cultural identity. Chilote people are quick to smile. Ask directions and you’ll likely be accompanied until you reach your destination, before a farewell that rivals post-Christmas-eggnog goodbyes.

Although a large earthquake years ago took a number of them, brightly colored houses stand above the tide on stilts. The ports are paintings. Their sturdy boats bulge with types of shellfish unknown in the states, the curved bows still bent by callus and ancient knowledge.

In search of the authentic and off the map, we ferry to the still smaller and more isolated Isla Achao and meet with a new company called Turismo Achao. We’re greeted by Senora Nina, her daughter Patricia, son-on-law Cristian, and nephew. They’ve received a government grant to develop tourism on the small island. Their mountain bikes shine with newness, as do their kayaks.

Going over potential routes, we bring freshly cut lamb’s wool to an elderly woman who weaves in the traditional way, her tiny frame eternally hunched from leaning over her loom. We sip tea and discuss the weather. The rains have been heavy this year, summer always comes though, she says.

We bike on feeling calm. After putting the final touches on an awesome loop combined with kayaking, we learn how to hunt at low tide and return with a bounty of various shellfish. The excitement of a new and exciting partnership is palpable in the small kitchen. We sip down the last of our seafood stew. After a long goodbye, it’s certain that what makes adventures to amazing places live on long after the return are the people you come in contact with.

La Navidad

2009-12-31T04:52:00.000-08:00

Our first Christmas as a married couple was spent here on the farm. Just as back in the suburbs of Minnesota, Christmas preparations start early. Senora Berta - once a neighbor and increasingly a surrogate mother to us here on the farm - was frantically baking cookies and breads weeks ahead of time. The hour was surely upon us when we were butchering and salting a choice lamb for a typical holiday barbeque. There isn’t anything quite like fresh, farm-raised lamb roasted for hours on a spit.

On Christmas Eve watched little Thomas open his imported Legos. I couldn’t help but draw comparisons; our customs different in that Chileans for the most part exchange gifts on the eve, but similar in that men feign mild excitement over new underwear while boys beam over their new toys.

We missed all our family and friends greatly and are reminded, both by the weight of their absence and the sincere care of others, what a powerful holiday Christmas can be.

El Cliente

2009-12-31T03:59:00.000-08:00

We recently said goodbye to our first client. Christopher hails from the sweltering bayous of Alabama, proudly wielding the moniker ‘Bama’, but he will forever go down in the halls of Knowmad Adventures as ‘el cliente’. His journey was an unforgettable one for him and monumental for us. After trying his hardest to miss a bus or plane, he’s already planning the return.

It seems our adventure is picking up speed, as additional travelers have followed in el cliente's wake and more Knowmads will be journeying here in the next few months.

Valley of the Gods

2009-12-17T12:41:00.000-08:00

It’s not dumb luck or simple coincidence that we live in this precise point of Chile, with her supermodel measurements. Glacial lakes are warmed by towering, crotchety volcanoes and feed raging rivers---offering a plethora of activities for the outdoor enthusiast. An almost overwhelming array of options really. And after what seems like months of getting “settled” we’re faced with the not-so-little task of choosing the best of the best, and then linking them together. We set up meeting after meeting, we scour the internet, leaf through the guidebooks. The brochures pile up along with our nerves.

We decide research is overrated and an exploratory trip is necessary. Armed with our trusty steed, The Galloper, a tent, and smoked salmon we head east to Cochamo Valley. It is lesser known and seemed to be the type of place people want to keep secret, but their expression inevitably betrays them revealing that the valley had sparked their imaginations and affected their existence.

After a blustery pit stop at the Volcano Osorno to take a ski lift to the top – no more of a view available than your outstretched hand on this given day – we started to descend into the Valley. It seemed we had the place pretty much to ourselves and as we got further it became obvious that this was a place our guests to this region would have to see. The rivers with waterfalls and mosses cascading about are a color only dreamt up by the most hopeful child. Behemoth monsters stretch their branches upwards for the eternity they’ve lived. I’ve spent many months in the world’s only other temperate rainforest in southeast Alaska, but there is no comparison in my estimation.

We inched along trying not to kick up the road’s dust as ancient grandmothers plodded down the road through town. It is a place where everyone is known by name and a wave is still mustered for the passersby. The town is tidy, houses with vegetable gardens, shiny, groomed horses lending a majestic and timeless aura.

The road runs along a wall of green that only breaks for crashing waterfalls and is flanked by a turquoise fjord. We cross a river and arrive to the small lodge we’ve come to see. It’s everything and more we’ve hoped for. The handful of rooms are quaint, more comfy than your favorite pajamas, and offer modern conveniences in spite of being located in a corner of the world remote enough to feel like it’s yours alone.

We meet the owner and instantly like him. There’s a fire going and over tea I’m happy to find a great potential partner and a friend. The company is dedicated to sustainability and the by-far-more-rare but no less important commitment to culturally responsible tourism. This is especially important as they have one of the only tourism facilities in the upper valley towards Argentina where only a few hundred homesteaders still make a living along the horse trail that for over a century has connected the country’s commerce and been traveled by the likes of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

Kurt invites us to stay for a couple days until Monday when we can head up to the upper valley at La Junta with two gauchos who are bringing up five packhorses. We couldn’t be more excited and enjoy exploring the incredible valley until it’s time to head out.

Horacio and Cochello are real deal gauchos. Reserved, serious but quick to smile, polite to being almost shy, they seem to hold the honor of their craft in a gnarled hand as they firmly shake your hand. They’ve got the horses ready to roll and we set out for the trail. We get an idea that this is no pony-ride-at-the-school-fair ordeal within a few miles as we cross a swift river with boulders bigger than your average Chilean hatchback. The horses are born and bred on the trail and as we ascend into the forest that J.R. Tolkein couldn’t have come up with, we relax feeling their knowledge and confidence on the trail. Horacio explains that these horses are bred from generations who walked this trail loaded with Chilean seafood and returned with Argentine beef. They are born training for their work.

Arriving to the mountain lodge in La Junta is the type of experience that changes lives. The valley is surrounded by massive, snow-capped granite walls that taper into a rain forest with dense canopy and layers upon layers of vegetation. The valley is green with grazing land as horses rest and play. Waterfalls cascade from every direction. And up on the hill is a beautifully-hand-crafted, small lodge warm with fire and handmade breads. The valley is yours to behold with miles upon miles of serenity, usually holding no more than a handful of tourists.

Coming down from the Valley we started the week with renewed spirits and continued finding incredible activities for our tour in the region. This month we’ve rafted bulging rivers, zoomed through the rainforest canopy, and canyoneered through beautiful river canyons before rappelling a hundred feet into one of nature’s finest pools. It has been nothing short of spectacular.

here we are

2009-12-03T10:18:00.000-08:00

November 19th - Reflections

2009-11-19T09:32:00.000-08:00

Reluctantly rolling out of bed, chilled feet are delighted to find slippers in an increasingly familiar spot. Wood gently creaks under foot and there is a steady patter of rain on tin. Crossing the small living room out to the porch, I’m joined by Boni and her I’ve-had-a-long-life tits. We fetch some wood together. The fire roars in the wood-burning stove, strong coffee brews on the old but firm German stove.

Steinbeck’s Cannery Row, with Mack and the gang floating beyond the grasp of the industrial revolution’s promises, compliments this new and incredibly cozy situation we’ve found for ourselves. My gaze drifts to the window and out over the green expanse littered with sheep and cows. I think of the sleeping volcano that keeps watch over the lake just beyond the hills. It’s an obvious metaphor for the past month; a right-moment’s peace, so real you can hold it, a view so calm you almost forget that chaos preceded, and a volatile unpredictability is yet to unfold.

November 15th – The Promised Land

2009-11-16T11:25:00.000-08:00

Never in my life have I been so preoccupied by the various rattles, clicks and pings that a car makes while in transit, but having dumped a significant chunk of our operating capital into our Hyundai Galloper, we’re on pistons and needles every inch of the journey. She doesn’t fail us and it seems will be worth every peso. The landscape slowly transforms from a warm, dry Mediterranean climate akin to Napa Valley, into sweeping lush hills. We joke, but not without a hint of believing that we’re headed into the Promised Land.

The northern Patagonia’s beauty warrants our feeling, but only hours after arriving we feel the weight of our next task; finding a furnished home to rent without long-term contract in a high demand location just weeks before the onset of Chilean summer when Puerto Varas will be inundated with vacationing Chileans and a healthy smattering of foreigners. We’ve been made bold by the previous weeks and set to our task immediately.

A stroke of luck lands us in a Chilean boarding house run by a most friendly Senora Alisa and housing some Chileans who after light conversation jump to our aid in the quest for a house. We meander through a not-too-light rain looking for small avisos in the windows but they are few. I call through the numbers in the newspaper classifieds and on the notice board at grocery store with little luck. Our new friend Julio recalls a conversation with a lady at church who mentioned it was lamentable he didn’t have a car because she has a little cabin on her farm for rent. He has gathered from accompanying us to the many houses we weren’t fond of, and from her description, that it may just be a perfect fit. He gives her a call.

It’s still available and we drive the ten kilometers from town, turning onto a long drive to an old Chilean-German farm. The cabin is small and rustic, but homey with antique furnishings and wood-burning stove. There are goats to keep us company, dogs, cats and even a not-so-wild boar on the property. The deal is sealed as Senora Berta throws in fresh eggs, milk, free pickings from the vegetable garden, and use of Dora the horse with rent. Baaaa says the sheep. Home sweet home.

October 26th – Keeping up with the Jones’

2009-10-27T10:55:00.000-08:00

The perils of moving to foreign countries for extended periods of time are many. What in more geographically and culturally familiar locales would be straight-forward, simple, and free of pain, suddenly become as probable and enjoyable as juggling eggs while running on a beach ball down a New York city street during rush hour. Neither this fact or experience is new to me, but setting up a business elevates the stakes even further.

We’ve finally found our car after traipsing across the city countless times. She’s a beauty, seems to have a firm engine and the price is right. Before leaving the states we’ve dumped all our money into one bank account that, on paper, will save us money while banking overseas. We’ve also set it up by filing paperwork ahead that a wire transfer for a large quantity of money will be immediate and only require one fax. Or so we think.

The Chilean banking system is stringent. A good thing in light of the recent crisis which affected Chile much less than other economies in spite of their copper and salmon exports which fuel the economy and very much tie it to the global economy. A bad thing, however, for me. A wire transfer requires a receiving bank account. Not having our residency cards yet, we’re not allowed to open a Chilean banking account. Nothing like having thousands of dollars wired into someone else’s account to start your day off right. On top of that, they require a minimum of seventy-two business hours on their end to clear the transaction. They also need to “verify the funds” when coming from abroad which adds more time. Of course this information is only obtained after waiting through thirteen lines in six banks, and there is the small and tiring detail that this is all done in a non-native tongue.

ATMs in Chile only dispense small quantities meaning I would have to go to something like ten ATMs a day to reach my daily limit over a period of nine days to get the dough, not to mention carrying around wads of cash in a bustling capital city, so that option is out.

Our American bank also requires the fax, and international faxes of course aren’t the thing of your run-of-the-mill call center kiosk.

When all is said and done, we pay a large chunk of cash to assuage the selling party to hold the car for a week while we sit on our hands, pull out our hair, curse bankers, and just barely avoid tantrums. The whole time we’re sweating tsunamis as Tara’s grandparents are set to arrive for a city tour and then we’re scheduled to head to the wine region in our new wheels for appointments with hotels, restaurants, etc that we may work with in the future.

We get the car the day before we have to head to Santa Cruz. Of course, as foreigners, all the documentation needs to be done in a notary’s office (line number four hundred and thirty two). Then we need to find an insurance office in the city and get it inspected and insured. Last but not least, as many of Chile’s roads are privately owned (little of the socialist Chile of the late sixties and early seventies can be seen in what today is a highly capitalistic country), we need to get an automatic toll mechanism to avoid exorbitant fees in the coming months. Oh, and there’s only one office that is qualified to sell the device to foreigners, which happens to be across and outside the city…but you can’t drive or you’ll have to pay the fines. I’m balder every day.

The fruit that’s hard to come by tastes even sweeter, and we finally roll out of the city elated in our seven passenger SUV. Tara’s grandparents are seasoned travelers who joined us in Thailand years ago. They jumped on the chance to join their friends on a trip sponsored by the Minnesota arboretum knowing we would have recently arrived. After taking them on a city tour, they join their group and head for Santa Cruz. It’s a great opportunity to be with then while visiting many of the spots we have chosen to preview for our Santiago area tour, so we meet them in the fertile valley.

Their tour takes them the following day to the Viu Manent vineyard, which from our research we know is a top vineyard candidate to be in our tour as well. Rolling into the vineyard I’m nervous. This is a big moment: to be better than our competition it’s imperative that we see first hand and test all hotels, restaurants and activities that will be featured on our tours.

Great right? We get to do all kinds of fun things. The problem is these things cost a good deal of money and we’re not aiming to spend our entire savings on nine different vineyard tours. So this is the first big test on whether my explaining who are company is and what we’re doing, coupled with some salesmanship, sharp clothes, business cards, and a marketing flier, will be enough to get us in the doors without cracking the wallet. Before I know it my mark is fetching his manager…the stakes are raising.

Marco receives us with open arms and we talk about some details and benefits for tour operators that can be handed down to our clients. We accompany Tara’s grandparents’ tour. Afterwards we’re introduced to the owner of the adjoining equestrian center and he takes us privately on beautiful horses through the vineyard, learning about the different leaves of cabernet and malbec, merlot and carmener. Sunset, tea, a little business, and we’re on our way. This has been a primary preoccupation for months. Encouraging is an understatement and I fall asleep smiling.

Within a few more weeks we’ve visited all our targets and been led to many more along the way. We feel we have designed an innovative, fresh trip that will be both active and relaxing while giving adventurers a deep and authentic look at four extremely distinct areas of Chile with minimal travel time. And we haven’t entirely broken the bank doing so. With that done, it’s finally time to make the thousand-kilometer journey to the northern Patagonia.

October 17th

2009-10-17T07:59:00.000-07:00

Sitting next to Geoff, one of my longest and best friends, we bound along up and out of Santiago, into the exhilarating switchbacks that ascend so rapidly they might as well be an elevator. Santiago sits near sea level and snow-capped Andean peaks loom as high as 18,000 feet not far from the capital.

Geoff and his wife Jess are on their honeymoon and have backpacked for the past month in Peru and Bolivia before coming to Chile. Their timing is less than desirable, our feet still burning from hitting the ground and having more unfinished business than a wartime president, but we’re happy to see them and suck in some adventure.
Cajon Del Maipo, or the Maipo Canyon lies just east of the city towards the Argentine border. It’s pretty and convenient for getting out of the Santiago bustle. After a nice evening barbeque in a cozy cabin we’re ready for some adventure and opt for a horseback ride. Rather than pay the entrance fee for a on-the-map nature reserve and an overpriced ride I get a contact from the cabin owner for a campesino, a true caballero that does horseback rides in the next town. We call Juan Pablo and he’ll be ready with the horses in an hour.

A bit lucky, in a matter of minutes a bus passes on the little-used mountain road and brings us to San Gabriel, which turns out to be one hundred percent off the map and looks to have no facilities.

Juan Pablo meets us at the police check point – think old west border town – and leads us to his humble but picturesque cabin at the foot of the mountains. He and his wife Carol are heading for Santiago to buy supplies so we’ll go with his good friend Luis. We make small talk about Chile, cowboys and what we’re doing at Knowmad. He realizes, as I had with a bit of trepidation upon arriving, that we’re going to ride until near nightfall if we climb to the mesa and will have no way out of San Gabriel, buses running only during the day.

“Donde van a alojar para la noche?” he asks.

I tell him I really have no idea where we’ll spend the night, this is an exploratory adventure and we’re prepared to roll with the punches. He doesn’t hesitate and offers us his cabin for the night with no mention of money. I immediately accept and am relieved to not have to tell the group we’re between a rock and a cold place and that’s how we’re going to pass the night.

Mounting up with Luis we climb thousands of feet to a mesa overlooking the valley. The air is crisp, the sky clear, the horizon vast. Returning just before dusk, Luis’s eight-year-old son unpacks the horses.

“Mi hijo te acompana al mercado,” says Luis.

“No need,” I reply. It’s a small town and I’m sure we’ll find the market.

“Es major que te acompane,” he replies without being pushy, but leaving no room for disagreement.

So we’re led through the pueblo, which is really just a collection of small dwellings and a liquor store that doubles as the town watering hole, a pinto and a buckskin reined outside. We grab some wine and beer before being led on by our young companion.

He leads us through a gate and I notice a small, hand-painted sign lying on the ground shyly announcing that this house is the town market. I smile understanding Luis’s persistence – we never would have found this.

Over candle light we sip wine from the valley just south of us and devour grilled pork ribs, good friends recounting past adventures and reveling in how the day has played out. I recall my frustration at the automotriz and throughout the week, reminding myself that as in any great adventure, there will be broken toilets and radiators, but there will also be moments like this.

6 p.m. October 15th

2009-10-15T18:00:00.000-07:00

After changing from the red to the green line we emerge from the subterranean cavern of one of the subway’s final stops in Santiago’s outskirts. No longer are there trendy coffee shops with well-dressed businessman chatting over smart dishes. The road is sparse on cars, heavy on loiterers wearing tattered clothes and stern stares. Unoccupied warehouses loom. The sharp contrast reflecting the wide gap between Chile’s emerging middle class and the still large impoverished sector is immediate.

Tara and I have trapsed across the city and checked out myriad used cars, still waiting to find the one, this the first time I wish I’d made the trip without my blond, Scandanavian featured wife.

After some searching we find the address of the automotriz and are let in the gate by the guard. The seven passenger behemouth we’ve come to check out is pretty easy to find amongst the smattering of compact cars common to South American cities. I peer into the Hyundai noticing the interior is in good shape and turn to find a saleslady.

“How is the engine?”

“Impecable.”

“Has it been crashed?”

“Never, it’s a great automobile that’s very well taken care of.”

“And what about the oil on the chasis and the ground below?”

“That’s just some mud. The car has no problems.”

She hurries off for the keys at my request. It starts sluggishly and sugary tasting liquid streams from the tail pipe. At least it’s in our price range and has low kilometers I remind myself feeling frustrated for making the trip already.

“Why is there so much water coming from the tail pipe?”

“Eso es normal,” she asserts. The engine is just cold. She hails over the mechanic, who also happens to be her husband, and as an objective party he reaffirms her diagnosis.

Under the hood I notice there’s no radiator fluid. I point it out and ask for her to get some water so we can see that there are no leaks when it has fluid.

“No tenemos agua por aca,” she says.

“You don’t have water here? What about in the toilet?”

The toilet is broken, but I shouldn’t worry, the engine is impeccable assert both her sons from behind there father.
Tara’s eyes tell me to stay calm.

“Would you like to test drive it?” the saleslady asks.

“Sure.”

“We must stay in the lot though, it’s too late in the day to go on the highway,” she reasons.

“How about you just give me your card and I’ll call you.”

2009-10-13T16:05:00.007-07:00

BIENVENIDO! POSTS COMING SOON!

2009-10-13T12:20:00.003-07:00

2 a.m. October 11th (night before departure)

2009-10-13T02:00:00.000-07:00

We’re fifteen pounds over weight. Tara’s distraught and adamant that she’s got nothing left that isn’t absolutely necessary.

“What about all the paper samples and the silver boxes full of your design stuff?” I grumble before quickly retreating into my own bag after getting a more than energetic rant about needing everything to continue her graphic and web design business. My leg to stand on is gimpy in light of her previous sleepless nights getting our marketing collateral and web page together, not to mention we’re going to need every penny her freelance projects will provide while we’re in Chile.

I take out some clothes, a few pairs of socks and my fishing boots. “Alright, these weigh three pounds,” I say. “Now your turn.”

She opens her bag and takes out a couple of her prized scarves, retreating on her earlier assertion that as light-weight accessories scarves actually cut down on overall weight by making less clothes necessary, and a few other things.

At wit’s end and with time winding down we look at each other realizing fully for the first time that more than anything every ounce of patience is what we’re really going to need if we stand a chance.